Hornet rectifier

Off-topic
1

So my headlamp bulb was keeping blowing. Thought there might be a shortcut somewhere and decided that easiest way to sort it would be to change all the wiring loom. But when i disconected rectifier found that. So what you think? Faulty rectifier? If so, anyone maybe has to sell one?

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2

Just because the rr shows a burn mark doesn’t mean to say the rr has failed
It could just be a poor connection
Have you done some voltage checks ?

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What excatly should i check?

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Clean up or replace the connector then test the charging system output voltage by checking the battery voltage with the engine running at a fast idle (1500 rpm) If the voltage reading is less than 13v or more than 15v then suspect a charging system fault.

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More than 15v makes sense, less than 13v doesn’t as the bulb would not be blowing if less voltage. Also, both of the wires of the bulb are powered atm. Have no idea why

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Now here’s a thing, what would happen if a 100W load protected by a 10A fuse was supplied with <10v? 

I’m just trying to help you properly diagnose a fault by properly checking the charging system by means of a diagnostic test which has an upper and lower tolerance limit.

Any results on the charging system yet?

Assuming the charging system tests within tolerance, what has caused the bulbs to fail prematurely? Check the bulbs appearance for any clues to the likely cause of the failures, the most common causes being filament failure, filament support failure, broken glass fragments inside bulb, broken glass bulb etc. The root cause of this type of failure is most likely caused through incorrect fitting, insure bulb holder or insecure bulb retaining clip where the failure is caused due to excessive vibration. Another main cause of premature bulb failure is rough handling either by the installer, parts department or delivery service.

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[quote] ...both of the wires of the bulb are powered atm. Have no idea whywin98se
Just noticed that bit. Not sure that's possible, if that's the case surely the fuse would fail?

Are you testing them correctly?

There should be a 4 pin connector with 4 wires from the loom supplying power to the front lights. The green is the chassis ground. The blue/black is the main beam, the blue/white is the dipped beam, the black/brown is the left/right side lights, all are +12v.