Fuel treatment

Do any of you do any sort of fuel treatment throughout the year, or like me every 4 fill up is shell V power. Or am I over thinking things p.s. piss taking is approved here…

Overthinking

I fill up with V Power because I like the name. There isn’t a performance difference on my bike apparently.

Probably as near an honest evaluation we’ll get here :wink:

There was something on top gear a few years back which showed it only really benefits high performance engines. Your every day joe blog run around it made no difference what so ever. So unless I was driving a Bugatti Veyron I would stick with the usual stuff.

Most UK engines are mapped to standard 95 octane (BMW M cars are mapped to 98) . It could actually be harmful to your engine. So if you filled it up and dyno’d it for the higher octane stuff it could give you some marginal performance gains. Nothing you’d necessarily notice as most of us don’t get close to using our bikes full capabilities. The only noticeable difference would only be an improvement in fuel economy. Ducati actively advise against filling up with the higher octain stuff.

I really ain’t looking for performance gains bit to clear the old crap out off the tank

BG44K to clean out, only because I bought it for the car. No idea if it worked!
. I sometimes use V power around payday as I definitely get more miles out of a tank. I haven’t used supermarket petrol since I got some rotten stuff from Morrison’s. Bike ran like shit on it.

... to clear the old crap out off the tank Bigty
What old crap?

If there is ‘old crap’ in the tank you need to remove the tank, drain it and clean it properly or, if you just mean stale fuel in the tank just top it up and run it low before topping it up again and again. Fuel should be good in the tank for 2 to 3 years, the danger of course is corrosion forming above the fuel line inside the tank.


... to clear the old crap out off the tank Bigty
What old crap?
If there is 'old crap' in the tank you need to remove the tank, drain it and clean it properly or, if you just mean stale fuel in the tank just top it up and run it low before topping it up again and again. Fuel should be good in the tank for 2 to 3 years, the danger of course is corrosion forming above the fuel line inside the tank. National Treasure

I think it was mentioned in this forum something about using a higher octane fuel periodically to clean the fuel system (because of some extra additives?). Or something along those lines, don’t quote me. I never really understood how that’s supposed to work, but that’s probably what he is referring to.

Any views on adding Redex?

Do they still make that stuff

when i had an R1, it would run  crap on some supermarket fuels (tescos). Eventually I tried shell Vpower and was quite suprised by the outcome. not only did it run sweeter but it also managed another 30 miles on a tank full of fuel. 

Makes no difference on normal bikes or cars. I have a mate with an AMG merc, previous to that he had a GT3 RS. There was a definate drop in performance for him in using 95 fuel

I have to use super unleaded in my AMG
I tried normal leaded and it didn’t like it

Car mechanic advised bg44k

Super unleaded in the KTM that’s because it has a plastic tank, and Super has less ethanol in the mix therefore less water, and it is the water that causes the tanks to warp.  Makes no difference to performance or fuel economy.

I did use a fuel stabiliser when the bike had to stand for months due to back issues.  But there is not reason to use anything if you use the bike regularly.

Redex and other additives are not needed as all petrol/diesel comes with additives to ensures cleaner burner, and less carbon fouling.

Generaly speaking higher octane fuel 98/99 is used mainly because it reduces posibility of engine knock especially on tuned engines but its also safer to run any engine ull be high reving for prolonged periods of time. Also on some engines even with stock ecu it has slight power increase since higher octane allows to advance ignition timing. For someone riding/driving slowly or slowish no difference whatsoever 95 or 98/99. For guys who race/trackdays it does.

In part. Engine knock is the result of pre-ignition which can be caused by fuel spontaneously combusting under compression and mostly occurs when the engine is running at higher temperatures and regardless of engine revs. It is the engines compression ratio that’s the determining factor of whether or not a high octane fuel is of any benefit and the benefit is to eliminate pre-ignition not to enhance an engines performance. Although in modern engines pre-ignition is almost eliminated by the electronic controlled fuel and ignition systems. Where pre-ignition is most likely to occur is at low revs with the engine is running hot and under load, like when slowly pulling away from stationary when having been sat in London traffic.

As a rule of thumb a compression ratio of 12:1 or more would require the higher octane 99RON fuels, a compression ratio between 12:1 to 10:1 should run perfectly well on 97/98 RON fuels and a compression ratio between 11:1 to 9:1 or less should run perfectly well on 95RON fuels. Yes there is an overlap because its not a complete science. Best practise would be to ignore the petroleum companies claims, check the owners manual for the manufacturers recommendations and run on the minimum specifcation unless in the unlikely event that you experience pre-ignition.

Once put 95 unleaded in my Mondeo, caused it to run crap and keep cutting out.

Went back to using diesel after that