I guess you could get it from ebay. B and Q, Wickes, anywhere like that will have .it. A dremel or similar is handy, but abs is fairly easy to cut and shape.
With regards to the holes in your fairings, I would sand off an area behind the holes, then stick a backing piece on. Put a weight of some description on it for an hour or so to help bond it right on there.
Then I would cut a square piece of abs, slightly bigger than the hole, offer it up and score round it with a Stanley knife, ensuring you get as neat an outline as poss. Then using the dremel, (or knife and patience) I would trim out the excess, so that your insert slots in neatly. Then bond it to the backing piece.
I’m not a great fan of touch-up paint, unless its for the tiniest of scratches.
If you have a good look on ebay, you can buy colour coded spray paint for your bike in a tin, with tin of clear coat to finish it. Costs about £20 for the kit.
Take the repaired fairing, coat the areas you have repaired liberally with a decent plastic primer (check the side of the paint tin, some top coats demand a specific colour primer) allow to dry, rub down the whole thing with 250 grit to a smooth finish…not shiny, just even.
Then build up some coats of paint on it, my top tip is to do it somewhere warm, and in between coats run a hairdrier over the wet paint. Not close, and certainly not on full power, but enough to gently warm the fairing. The trick to spraying with a rattlecan is getting enough paint on the job so that the individual particles of paint ‘run’ together and pool to create a solid surface, but not too much so that the paint becomes heavy and sags/runs. Making sure the fairing is kept toasty makes this a lot easier to achieve. Don’t be tempted to apply 500 ‘mist’ coats, the result will be a sandy unstable surface. Practice on the back of the fairing until you get an idea of how much paint you can get on before it runs.
The finish will be eggshell, but you don’t care at this stage. You are more interested in getting a good even series of coats across the whole job.
When you are satisfied that the colour is good, leave for 24 hours to dry. I prop mine in front of the fan oven with it on low for a few hours with the door open. Don’t let it get hot, it will bubble. I try and emulate a hot summers day with a warm breeze.
24 hours (minimum) later, get a shedload of clearcoat on it. This stuff is much more forgiving than the paint, and you can get some fairly thick coats on. Again, I gently run a hairdrier over the job immediately before and after I apply the clearcoats. You are still not really interested in the finish, just an even coat.
Leave in a warm place for 24 hours (minimum, 48 is better) and then begin the polishing… I start with 250 grit and LOTS of water with a dash of fairy liquid in it. Be gentle, be patient. It will lose any shine that it had and start to look matt. You want it matt all over, then use a 400 grit, more water, then 600, followed by 1000, and if you’re feeling enthusiastic at this stage, 2000. Be gentle, the paint is still soft.
You need to be careful with the panel for a few weeks, it will dent quite easily until the paint cures properly, but I tend to put mine back on the bike at this stage as I’m not the most patient.
When its been on a few weeks, take some rubbing compound, or at a pinch some t cut and give a really good cut and polish with a soft cloth. Job done.
I have done all my panels at some stage or another and tbh I have got a better result than the factory finish. The trick to getting the glossy finish is spending lots of time with the sandpaper.
