Who’s LB’s resident electric expert I can’t remember 
What’s the question?
1 Like
Need to hard wire both a Scottoiler and Innov camera to a switched live
Best practice is to use a relay, it will have 4 or 5 pins numbered as the picture is (doesn’t matter if you get the 4 or 5 pin one, one pin will be redundant on the 5 but it’ll still work)
Pin 30 wants to be connected to the positive side of the battery, via a fuse.
85 to a switched live, e.g. your running lights
86 goes to ground (any exposed unpainted metalwork or battery negative)
87 to the feed to your scotoiler and camera.
If it’s a 5 pin there will be 87a too, ignore this though it will become live when the bike is off
Have a look at the scotoiler and camera and see what current they say they will pull, and add them together. You can run them off of the same relay.
1 Like
I use a Fuzeblock for ancillary electrical connectionsto be on the safe side
I’ve just ordered one of these for my bike as I run out of links on the Fuzeblock
this way you only take a signal wire from the bikes main electrical system that doesn’t draw a great amount of current
its usually the orange wire on Suzuki’s which is your best option to use as a supply signal wire
That’s a neat solution.
for some reason my battery tray has a foam insert because the supplied battery is too small. I’ve got one of these to fit down the side. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-3V-5V-12V-24V-4-Channel-Relay-Module-High-and-low-Level-Trigger-Dual-Optocoupler/32880648815.html
Here’s one we did earlier Installing a TomTom
Good to go for any number of accessories, you’re only limited by the output of the battery and alternator.
A pic speaks a 1000 words but in a foreign language. It sort of makes sense but what wiring are you using?
The 250 is wired with what I had, some of it was OTT but hey ho.
Halfords is your friend, they do small spools of 5 - 20 amp autoelectrical cable.
I’d suggest 20 amp for the main feed to the relay and 5 amp for the oiler and camera. They’re probably no more than 2 amp each so you could run both on the same circuit but don’t take my word for it check the manufacturers specifications and recommendations.
Most of mine is 1.5mm singles (as that’s the smallist I can get from work), and that’s generally about right.
Where about a are you, I might be able to give you some, as it would be silly to buy a roll for 3m
I’m East London for work, Stepney or North London Edmonton
Cheers for all the advice, am picking up the Scottoiler tomorrow and gonna order the Camera next week so will order everything and go from there, fingers crossed
if you want some wire I can get some to you
we have loads of 5core cable at my site
if you want lt me know how many meters you needs & I can drop it at Stepney
So just reading up on power consumption and Scottoiler recommend that the oiler is connected directly to the battery not a switched live
eSystem Battery Connection and Power Consumption
The eSystem must be wired directly to the battery so that is has a continuous power supply.
This is the correct way to install the eSystem, and if this continuous power supply is maintained the eSystem will retain all the settings input by the rider. If power is disconnected then these settings will reset to default positions, for example the oil level will return to “empty” and the flow rate will return to “off.” If the eSystem is not wired in this way, and is instead wired through a switched power source, then it will not retain its settings. Effectively the switch interrupts the power supply, therefore connection through a switched source is not recommended.
Install a relay and run the camera and anything else, other than the Scottoiler, off an accessory circuit radiating from terminal 87. Splice the Scottoiler to the spade connector to terminal 30 (+12v from battery) as per terminal 30 wiring here
I might be asking the wrong question here, but how have you got to the point where your chain oiler needs any electricity, let alone an uninterrupted feed?
and its just £199.95