Changing chain and sprockets

Hi, Gonna do a chain and sprocket change front and rear on the missus’s bike for the first time. Should I get standard parts or save money and get aftermarket? Is it a false economy? Also, any good suppliers for parts that you guys know off?



Think I need

front and rear sprockets
rubber damper thingys from the sprocket seating area in the rear tyre.

get aftermarket D.I.D chains are good so are many others dont really think may make crap soft one anymore, shop around online in accesories shops like busters or Demon tweaks thay always have good deals :slight_smile:

cheers mate.

You got a splitter ? :slight_smile:

If the cush drive rubbers re in good nick don’t replace them.

Stick an Iron bar (wrapped in a towl to avoid scratching swingarm/wheel) to lock the rear wheel when you undo the front sprocket bolt - stick in their when you tighten up as well.

You might nead a breaker (extension) bar as well as the front procket can be on really tight.

Sorry if you’ve done this job before and don’t need the advice. :slight_smile:

Whats a GFS650 then?:wink: Is that like one of them Bandits then?:smiley: is your friend when it comes to C&S kits.

Don’t be tempted to get alloy sprockets, waste of money IMO

Might also be fun to go 1 tooth lower on the front sprocket for a bit of extra zip:cool:

Thanks. All advice gratefully received. First time doing this job. I have a breaker bar:D.

DID ZVM2 530 chain and sprocket set… and for ANY advice on Bandit type bikes Max Zuk Bandits, Katanas and DR/DRZ’s


Mate, that looks like an x ring chain, thought I needed an o ring? The manual says I need a rkfs50smoz1 with 112 links but google doesn’t throw anything up for that?

X ring is a form of O ring just an X shaped one, gives 2 seal surfaces per ring rather than 1

I’d recommend an AFAM kit from FWR for £99 -

You may also need a new lock washer for the front sprocket nut, although ISTR the 600 Bandit engine uses a sort of lock bolt arrangement instead ?

I use a bit of wood through the wheel rather than a metal bar as it spreads the load better. Whichever you use, make sure it’s not sitting on the rear brake line when you apply pressure!! :hehe:

I just sit on the bike with it in gear and the back brake on… and pull up on the breaker bar.

Never had a problem yet, and I have a ZX9 which are notoriously bad for removing front sprockets.

I had to get help professional to do my ZX7R sprocket bolt G - I swear it was bending the breaker bar - I got scared and was convinced that that any more force would cause the breaker bar to break! - sending bits of it into my face or something!I swear that my Kawasaki became fossilised at some point in the last 9 years. . . :crazy:Thankfully I have drilled/hammered most of it apart by now and am putting it back together wuith generous dollops of copper grease. . .:Dp.s. Brigsy you’ll probably need to put thread lock on sprocket thread - not copper grease!

Thanks guys. Ordered the parts…

Bugger. Just noticed that I haven’t any thread lock. Is something like this ok? Have reserved some to pick up tomorrow.

The loctite will do the job - it’s medium strength which is good e.g. it will keep the bolt in place but will allow you to remove it again at some point in the future! :slight_smile:

Cheers mate.

No worries :slight_smile:

Aye, that threadlock will be fine .
I use Loctite 242 for most threaded stuff and 638 for retaining shafty type things.
I used to use it a lot when I were a engineery type…