After getting my bike fixed in quick time for the RBLR last week following my off on Monday - I now have a knackered chain (think the 1000 mile ride finished it off).
Is it a big / difficult job to change chain and sprockets? What tool will i need to get the chain off and put it back on.
Anyone got any suggestions as to the best make of chain to get?
How long should a chain generally last (I got 11,000 miles out of the stock one)?
I’ve done this a couple of times at OMC with Matt/ Simon keeping an eye on me. Even though it’s easy enough job there’s always a couple of moments where you think: “now what am I supposed to do there”.
Apart from the normal things like spanners/ torque wrenches, etc we used an angle grinder to cut the chain off - apparently don’t need to use that but it makes the job so much easier (and fun!). Then you also need the tool to rivet the chain together. That’s something I Wouldn’t want to tackle myself because I know i’d probably rivet the wrong link 
DID chains are good. With chains I’ve been taught that you pay more for the better ones and you get better result. I got about 15-18K out of mine… and would have got more probably but for the last 4-5 months really really neglected it… talking about riding everyday winter and cleaning lubing once every month, maybe…
I replaced mine before the RBLR 1000, although the factory fitted chain was within manufacturers tolerance (<321 mm measured through 21 pin centres) three links had become seized after 24,000 miles of service.
My new chain kit preference was for the basic DID ‘black’ X-ring chain and Tech Corp sprockets but Squaredeals were out of stock and new stock was late in so they upgraded the chain to a DID ‘black/gold’ 525 VX X-ring chain for no extra charge
I also got the £35.00 Moto Cam chain splitter and riveter tool from them inter webby wotsit here it comes with detailed, easy to follow instructions although if you’ve not done the job before watching one or two of the many how2 videos on YouTube will be of some benefit. It’s a simple job, allow one hour to complete or two hours if you want to double check everything step by step.
Mode d’wotsit (in brief)Loosen front wheel sprocket before splitting the chain.Grind off one riveted pin head, check for a soft or hollow link pin, recognised by the dished centre of the rivet as it will remove easier, hard or solid link pins have domed rivets and require a little more effort to remove.Remove the pin and chain using the chain tool pin extractor.Fit new sprockets.Fit the new chain using the chain tool link press, anvil and riveter.Check your work, wheel alignment and chain slack.
Make sure you have all the tools required before commencing the job some of the tools required will not be found in off the shelf tool kits, socket sets or spanner kits. The tools required for the job on the Bonne were10, 19 and 24 mm combination spanners½" x 8, 13 and 36 mm sockets, short extension, tee bar and torque wrenchSmall bolster chisel and hammer75 mm grinding wheel on electric drillChain splitter/riveter tool12" steel rule
All excellent advice - additionally I put an iron bar through the back wheel to lock it against the swing arm - helps to undo/tighten the front sprocket.
Essential rubber in east London will do it for around 25-30 quid.
Omc if you’re central 
aye, loosen the front sprocket before you cut the chain is my main advice too.
Personally, I grind the heads off the non-riveted chain link then punch them through with a hammer to break it. it’s easier than cutting through the link.
Thanks for all the advice - i think i will have a go myself given all of your pointers.
For lords sake! Why are people grinding the heads off rivets on a chain that will go in the bin anyway?
Stick a bit of scrap wood under the chain and just disc cut right through it.
Always losten the front drive sprocket as the first job. Why. Well, 1: it should be done that way and 2: you will come across some that just will not move and will need professional kit.
Do you have the tool to secure the rivet in the new chain?
I do it that way because
That’s what I have, a 75mm grinding wheel, besides its a little gentler and easier to handle than my 9" angle grinder which is
a) Too big and
b) will shower the bike with tiny red hot bits of chain swarf :w00t:
