I am fast becoming an eccentric figure of fun in the Bike section :smiley: - and I know that there are some real mechanics on here.

I think i’ll just stick to posting in general chat and pictures and videos. . . :smiley:

Sid, who do you think people will come to for advice when they want to remove a bolt, freshen up brakes, etc etc??? :wink:

Isn’t this what the freeplay measurement is for? I’d always presumed you adjust it on side/centre stand with no-one on the bike so that the chain is as free as the manual/sticker says, and in producing this the manufacturer has accounted for chainline growth. It seems to me to be too much of an inexact science generally to bother ignoring the manufacturer’s instructions and arsing about to get the longest chainline, personally, when there’s always tight and loose spots anyway.

I hope someone will benefit from my sacrifice. . . :smiley:

I think your right - unless you are preparing a GP bike I don’t reckon it pays to get too hung up on this stuff. :slight_smile:

noooo sid you make our day !!!

Well at least I’m making some positive contribution - even if it is just reducing people to laughter. . . :smiley: :hehe:

You keep going Sid - I like your threads - people will always learn something - and there’s always a few who are too afraid to ask the basic questions, for fear of being ‘gunned-down’.

I can’t promise you won’t get the odd silly reply from me though ;):smiley:

Thanks Alex - my ego has been gunned down over the years so many times that it now resembles a perforated limp airless balloon lying on the floor.

I am completely past caring. . . :P:D:hehe:

Or just don’t check the chain once you’ve adjusted it. Works for me. :cool:

I can never understand why Kawacrapi went away from having eccentric cam adjustment on their swinging arms. They were a piece of p!$$:D

You didnt even have to undo the wheel spindle nut;)

Are those the thinkg you get on the swingarm of the zrx1100 Eddie lawson rep type things?I’ve seen them but never used one.How come this system isn’t more widely used?

I 've never understood why they seem to have disappeared.Yeah, they are eccentric cams that you just undo the pinch bolt and rotate the whole wheel/axle assemby with a couple of 12mm allen keys… simples:DI believe Triumph used to use it, not sure about the latest crop though.

nice target if you drop slide the bike !!!


A modern wheel spindle and nut sticks out further and there is no reason why bungs can’t be fitted to a hollow spindle:P:D

Great system - outrageous they didn’t fit it to the ZX7R! :smiley:

Why is it, that you get the chain adjusted fine, then you tighten up the spindle bolt and the chain gets tight also?

Also, why is it that both chain adjustment markings on the swing arm show the same, yet I think the front and rear wheels are out of alignment because I’m getting a groove down the centre of the front and rear wheels?

Yea they are good but can’t get anywhere near full travel on my braced jmc…i need to have it set so the bike sits low rather than high otherwise the bottom brace fouls the chain run. Maybe this inherrant change of ride height is a reason why they were not more widely used.

You want to try and adjust a chain on a ZX7R - it’s total borroks - not because of the technical arrangements for the adjustment (standard bolt/sliding block) - but because the thickness and dimensions of the swingarm mean that the chain touches the underside of the swingarm before you can get any meaningful measurement of the chain slack.

I’ve been on the ZX7R website and lot’s of other people complain of the same thing - as a result zx7r owners just go for an approximate adjustment which results in a slightly (but not dangerously) loose looking chain - which is better than a tight chain and the strain/damage that would put on the transmission I guess.

Yep Afro - when you tighten up the spindle bolt you compress and lengthen the swingarm which can add 5mm to your adjustment and makes it too tight.

Measure the chain slack before you undo the spindle bolt - undo the spindle bolt and measure the slack (at the same point) again - subtract the two figures from each other - e.g. you may find that the difference is e.g. 5mm.

Then when you adjust the chain factor in the extra e.g. 5mm of tightness that will occur when you tighten the spindle bolt.

e.g. if you want a final chain adjusted of 35mm then adjust it for 40mm - when you do up the spindle you will have the desired 35mm and not the tighter 30mm slack you will have if you don’t take into account the compression of the swingarm.As for getting the chain straight - then perhaps one of those laser tools for checking chain straightness would do it - not used one before so can’t comment.

I tried the string method and just couldn’t get it right so bought the laser tool and it’s so easy to use . . . takes just a few seconds to see if the wheel is straight and to adjust it.