CBR chain and sprokets

I’m currently considering weather to change my front sprocket to either 15 or 14 teeth light weight sproket (current sproket is 16 teeth) to give it a little more on the old acceleration. Doing this I will probably change the rear sproket aswell to a lighter weight sproket but same amount of teeth (46 teeth). The only thing is I’m not sure what length chain I will need?

I know this will knock off some of the top speed but I don’t think I’ll need a 160mph top speed on the road lol.

Also someone mentioned something about coloured chains as a white one would look pretty cool, but I can’t rember who makes them, I think it is D.I.D?

For now I think this will be the only performance changes I’ll make untill all the cosmetics are sorted.

Hey fella. http://www.bikehps.com will help you with the kit you’ll need. The chain will come very long, and you’ll need a chain splitter to remove the old one (or use an angle grinder if you have one, it’s quicker) and to secure the new chain in place. You just set the length yourself then. AFAM, Renthal and Stealth are the best sprocket manufacturers. I can recommend Renthal personally, and so can most of the racing paddocks across the country.

Nice mod! Also, I’m not sure what ‘weight’ the chain is at the moment on your bike, but a common mod on litre bikes is to go for a lighter one, i.e. the gixxer 1000 I have comes with a 530 chain, going down to a 520 means you get a lighter chain, which saves (creates) more power.

As a standard mod, putting a 16T on instead of a 17T will use 1 less link of the chain, so on a standard, new chain, your back wheel will want to be 5-10mm back from its normal starting position, if you fit a chain with one less link and find the wheel now wants to sit 5mm further forward than your “normal” starting position, which may not be possible.

Going from std 18T to 17T feels like a 10-20% power increase but it can be fiddly to get the chain fitting right so dont try to do this half an hour before you have to set off somewhere.

Also, as we have a no doubt greasy wet winter ahead, for some people it might be best left to warm dry spring, your 600 will feel more like a 750 and will amaze you how easily it can spin up the back wheel.

Good advice Kaos. It’s true, changing the gearing reaps massive rewards. -1 at the front, and +2 at the rear will give you an incredible boost, I had this with my previous 750 and it was reeeeeally nice on track, would keep up with the thou’s. There was no usability troubles though, except the front wheel came up a bit easier.

I think your right about doing it after the winter, I have to ride the bike through the winter so the chain and sprokets will get covered in road salt anyway. But its something I’m going to keep in mind though.

One thing I’ve heard and noticed is that going down on the front sprocket will make the chain noisier, I’ve heard recommendations for going up on the rear sprocket instead of down on the front.

I’ve never heard of this, or experienced it. Remember, bigger sprockets mean more unsprung weight.

The noise of the exhaust would drown out the chain anyway lol.