Yup i do change the oil hot but im in no rush to do it on a trackday during session or miss a few whilst i do it 
sometimes i like to fart, scratch my head and pick my nose whilst the oil is draining too 
i wouldnt want to rush to take the fairings off, drain the oil, replace the filter, and forget to do something vital up like the sump bolt
but otherwise yeah its a grand idea
ok soooo… i really have bought a new bike (fook the depreciation) and i realy wont be selling it in any more than 3 years, and i’ll be chucking a bundle of miles on it for work - estimating at least 12k business milage per annum. Thats why i got a new bike. New, reliability (after the first few hundred miles and service, and certainly for the first year warrenty), and I will be chucking a lot of miles on it, etc etc. So what I realy want to do is RUN THE FOOKING THING IN PROPERLY!
Now I aint gonna get to a track to do it. I’ll be doing it on roads. I will have the manuf advice and may well follow it, but is there worth in the linky i originally sent or is it bulltosh?
Cheers!
R
just do the manufacturers recommended mate. no need to worry overly about this. at worst you’ve missed out on a couple of HP from taking it easy, you’re not racing so it doesn’t matter much either way.
ride it properly short shifting at 7-8k, and try not to avoid just cruising on motorways. get your first service done then enjoy it fully
Most bike manufacturers (including ours) suggest running it in relatively softly. Somes bikes suggest not going over 6-8000rpm til after 400 miles.
Its all down to you reali but if your planning on keeping the bike for a while, I wouldnt rag it til you’ve run it in.
Mate you seem to know everything about everything - or so you think!!
The guy said at the begining it was a fazer - and the majority of people would want a reliable bike over 1bhp increase!! If you rag a bike from the start and the piston jumps through the engine THAT AIN’T GONNA BE COVERED BY WARRANTY!!! Also the first 100 miles or their abouts you have to take it relativly easy anyway to bed in the tyres/breaks so you lot going straight on track are complete loons!!!
You want warranty - you do as the manufacturer tells you (JB even you have to admit they know more about bike and engines then you do!!)
odd that you interpret it that way mate
if you read my post I’ve actually asked a series of questions. I haven’t said i know the answer at all. I am questioning where your facts come from tho? 
People come out with all these facts about what is good for the engine during break-in etc and what isn’t, and its actually just what they were told by someone else or have read. No one on this tread as far as i can tell has any real first hand comparison of the effects. the 1bhp part you’re talking about is from the discussion about the article link posted in the first thread.
also its worth noting no-one is talking about ‘ragging’ the bike away from the dealership as a good idea. the break-in schedule on the first link is talking about a careful measured approach with percentage throttle application in a series of short runs, not wheelie it round the north circ and go for the longest stoppie. 
you’ll also note that I’m suggesting in the absence of any concrete info either way, there is no harm in sticking to the manufacturers recommendation for his road bike, which is also for the record what i have done with my new bikes. as you rightly say, warranty is handy!
johnny ‘I know f*ck all apparently’ bravo
(now wheres’ that ceramic disc catalogue )
You can still use the method suggested in the OP’s link, you don’t necessarily need to use max revs to get 80% of the benefit, just use full throttle in the mid range to get the cylinder filling up and get the rings pressing against the bores. Benefit of good sealing is marginally better power but more importantly less oil consumption/contamination, better fuel economy, greater efficiency and longer engine life. I have used this method on my last engine and it did have margnally more torque than an engine that came from a “by the book” source, although attributing that to just this technique is probably not entirely justifiable.
Ok so after picking up the bike heres what ive been told by the geezer at the dealer;
The manual says that
All makes sense.
R
So you run it in yet? 
With regards running in engines, I don’t really think there’s a lot of point.
In my last 2 jobs I’ve worked on Police vans, Ambulances and Ambulance Rapid Response Cars on a daily basis. None of these have had any form of running in in accordance with what the manufacturer suggests. They’ve all been hammered from stone cold from day one and driven like they’ve stole it ever since. I haven’t seen anything that would suggest that they are in any worse shape engine wise than other cars and vans that have been run in properly.
I’m not sure how the Met work, but in the Ambulance service the bikes aren’t run in properly either and they certainly don’t seem to suffer for it!
It’s not scientific proof, but it’s what I’ve seen and experienced.
to be fair vehicles owned by the emergency services are actually used properly daily… they are not a ford focus that someone drives 5 miles to work and back and once a week to tesco’s or a sports bike that makes it’s one outing a week (if it’s sunny/not a full moon etc). in day to day use they probably do more miles and stay hot, rather than lots of relatively short journeys which is what we all tend to do with our cars & bikes
i always buy used so i dont have to run it in!
Mate…People put new tyres and brake pads on a bike for testing on track before racing the following weekend…They take it easy for the first few laps to bed everything in.
Justr because the word track is mentioned doesn’t mean one just goes out there and goes Wide open Throttle from the off. Even when you have a fully run in sorted bike you have to take it easy for the first few laps to warm up tyres, engine and yourself…Well if you have tyre warmers then you can cross that off the list.
Dunno about a bike that wouldn’t see much track action, but if I bought a new bike (especially sports), I’d have me and it packed up in a van, off to Mallory Park for a day…And I wouldn’t rag it straight out on the first session or much of the day, but I would use all the revs up to what is allowed by the manufacturer…
I wouldn’t be much slower than if I had full revs though 
This is the sound of a bike that’s not had the rings bedded in properly, you can clearly hear the rings sliding with a slight chirp as they change direction and gas is allowed to pass, it’s not very clear so listen hard.
