I having to do mine, & one guy only used his in dry weather only, and his has furred up to,
hope this helps, pleas do check it.
The 1999-2000 models are prone to a fault within the loom. Symptoms are the FI flashing or staying steadily on for no apparent reason, the bike can still run but can also cut out without warning. You can also get the FI light coming on when you use other electrical items e.g. indicators, brake lights, horn etc. The problem gets worse with time, cuts out more often and then eventually totally shuts down.
The cause is a test block that comes out of the loom and is used when the bike is first built to test the various electrical systems, when done it is just taped up onto the side of the loom never to be used again, you wont find it on any wiring diagram in the official Honda or Haynes manuals.
The cure is a loom replacement which is covered by Hondas 5 year loom warranty or do it yourself if the bike is over 5 years old, I believe the cost of an official Honda loom if you have to pay is around £400 $%3un
The cost of DIY is a couple of quid if you have to buy any of the odds and sods and these are the two methods you can use-
Remove seat and rear cowling,take rear tank bolts out and raise the back of
the tank a few inches to give you some room to get at various connectors DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. This is the location of the connector a gob of insultation tape on the loom just in front of the left side rear passenger footpeg.
Disconnect the nearby electrical connectors including the main earth wire just under the back of the tank as it will give you a bit more room to work as the loom is pretty tight at this point
Cut away the insulation and this is the connector, not a straight through male and female block to join wires up but a dead end 20 pole connector with 19 connected wires within the block.
Took the thing apart but it took a bit of persuading as the corrosion was binding it and this is what I ended up with, doesn’t show very well but well furred up
Used contact cleaner, soft and brass brushes, emery cloth and needle file to clean the male and female contacts and it came up quite good
After cleaning, doused both parts in ignition sealer(Holts puts on a clear plastic coat), put them back together, covered the outside with it as well, followed by a spray of silicone grease. Taped it all up and instead of putting it under the loom where it becomes the lowest point and collects all the moisture (no wonder it fails) cable tied it to the subframe rail just above the loom making it the highest point.
Put everything back together after spraying and silicon greasing every connector I could see.
This worked for me for 3 months then the FI light started coming on again with the brake light, other people have done it and had no further problem to date, I think it all depends how far gone the connector has gone with corrosion when you do it. So PLAN B was done…
Intelligence is myth, competence is real
This could save you a, generator, reg,rec, and a bat.