Fair point, well made @Serrisan. As you say one mans easy is…
To clarify the skills required here you need to be able to remove the seats, remove or raise the petrol tank, access the battery, access the lighting circuit, crimp some connectors and scotch locks, drill some holes if you want to use self tapping screws to fix the cameras in place. The cameras, GPS antenna and switch all come with very decent sticky pads which would most probably be enough but since I mounted my cameras hanging downwards on the underside of the nose cone and top box mount I felt using the sticky pads and self tapping screws would be more secure, to be sure, to be sure.
Tools required are basic - spanners, screwdrivers or whatever you need to remove the seats and petrol tank, pliers, crimping pliers, drill and drill bit if you’re fixing with self tappers. Sundries you’ll need not included in the box are a scotch lock, ring terminals, inline mini blade fuse holder, inline crimp connector, cable ties. Other than that read the instruction from start to end before commencing work, consult the instructions as you work, plan the instal and instal the plan.
If you’re in any doubt of your own level of skill seek hands on help from a competent person.
Time wise it took me three hours on my install, including an half hour road test, re-adjusting the cameras, wiring the main unit in twice because I didn’t like the way I had it orientated the first time.
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Posi-tap connectors.
You just place the cable you are tapping into the bottom piece, screw on the middle part, thread the cable you are connecting through the top part, twist the exposed threads around the stud, then screw the top to lock it.
No splicing, no crimping, no tools at all if the end of your cable is exposed.
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As with most things there are more ways than you can shake a stick at. My weapon of choice is scotch locks for splicing into cable and crimp connectors for joining cables and accessories. Its a tried and tested method I’ve been using since the 1970’s and the only failures I’ve come across is when the wrong size connector/scotch lock was used. If you want to wire in a relay, 12v socket etc a female spade crimp connector is a direct fit! For added mechanical strength and/or protection from water/moisture ingress use shrink wrap and/or wiring loom tape.
Tools required are minimal - A pair of long nose pliers and crimping pliers. Note the crimping pliers are a multi tool for cutting cable, stripping back insulation and crimping connectors.
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Hey looks like I’ll be contacting you @National_Treasure should i need any assistance. You seem like someone very knowledgeable and you have the system set up yourself. Always good to seek out those who have done it before when you hit a snag
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You’ll be fine, what isn’t covered in this thread is covered in the instruction manual.
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Because my bike has an accessory port, for my own suff I just use that, the battery, and relays so I can leave the bike’s own wiring alone. But I needed to intercept the stop light for the one in my top box, so I used a posi-tap as that way I can leave the loom mostly untouched.
If I remove all my extra stuff the only sign that I did anything at all would be a tiny hole in the cable where the tap connected. Just like when you murder someone by injecting an undetectable poison and the only proof is a slight prick behind the ear, which no one would notice unless they were specifically looking for it.
The only downside to a posi-tap is it is a hard piece of plastic which needs to come out of the cable at a right angle. So it does not flex, which might be a problem in very tight spaces.
