ok, well most of you know I have spent the last 2 weeks decorating my front room, I painted the floor then varnished it, exactly as the tins stated.
There was no dry time on the varnish so I left it 2 days just incase.
so yesterday night we start putting things back, put the sofa in which then tears a massive chunk of varnish and paint off!!!
also, there was some dirt on the floor so I get a cloth and clean it, now the varnish on that bit has lost its sheen…
so my question is, whats the best hardwearing varnish I can get from homebase (as they will be paying for it!!)
but for a resonable price…I will mention that underneath is some flooring which was painted and varnished but it did not go through that varinsh so there must be something strong enough to last…
All the varnishes that I have ever used have been for the outside of the apartment in France. This is for the shutters and the door frames.
These have to put up with temperatures from +40 to -40, and the best varnish that I have found is Ronseal outdoor varnish, it says that it lasts longer than ship varnish, and after 2 years it has!
So I at the moment always stick with what is says on the tin, and no home brand substitute
Only on the frames on the inside and out, but not on the floor, so when I was having the place built, I insisted that all the floors were tiled, exactly for this reason, but would not recommend this way forward in the UK!
HI usually u varnish straight on to wood because it is phourouse and the varnish SINKS into the wood and u get a very hard wearing surface.if u paint it u must let paint dry through,up to 6 days the KEY IT,light rub down make sure its very clean then apply a seal or varnish then leave to dry.if u don t let paint dry properly,the paint GASSES and these get trapped between the paint and the varnish causing microblister,the varnish will just fall off the paint.if the paint is not compatable with the varnish it will SOFTON the paint and it will come off the wood. stick to staines and varnish there a lot better.
thanks for this, the paint was left to dry for 5 days like it said on the tin, the paint was specifically for flooring and nothing else… I then applied the varnish but like I say it did not give a drying time so therefore left it for 2 days and I put on 3 coats as well to make sure was nice and thick…there must be something I can put on like I say as the colour underneath was varnished and that was fine even with the sofa…also what about the fact I only wiped off a mark and it took of the sheen?I’m just soooooo pee’d off all my hard work went down the pan in like 2 seconds.
Day 1. sand down the entire floor to key in the paint, I did not take it back to the wood (did/do not have time)
Day 2. Paint first layer of paint onto floor goes on fine no issue’s
Day 3. Put 2nd layer of paint as advised, goes on no problems looking nice now.
Day 4,5,6,7 wait for paint to dry as described on tin
Day 8. put 1st layer of vanish on, wait 4 hours as described and go over again.
Day 9. add another layer of varnish.
Day 10,11. Wait for varnish to dry as there is no isntruction as to how long it takes to fully dry
Day 12. put sofa down then there is a big chip in my floor and you cannot clean it without removing the sheen off of the varnish…
It did not mention on the tin of paint anything about whether varnish would be an issue, and the tin of varnish did not mention anything about not being able to go onto paint!
sorry m8 i feel for u . if u use gloss floor paint u don t need to varnish it ,should be pretty hard wearing,a gloss varnish will have trouble sticking to unless its keyed .even then i would not chance it i know this coz my misses did it,and i had to take the lot off again which was no fun,i just varnished the wood in the end.just chuck a carpet down on it.all i can think of.
bugger that then it will have to wait until after xmas, it is more upsetting that my 2 little children were having so much fun putting the xmas tree up and now it will have to come back down so I can do the bloody floor again.do you have any suggestions on what I can do that will at least get me though the next month?
if it is still tacky then you can do a number of things, heat the room to a really high temperature for a few hours, it may just be that it is so cold it simply has not gone off,it does sound a bit like a product problem rather than a temperature thing but its worth a try…
if that doesnt work, then get a load of plastic sheets, lay them on the floor and either put carpet on it temporarily or use old carpet prior to re doing the whole shooting match…
and contact the manufacturers as I bet they will tell you what can be used to top coat the top coat…if anything
Have to say i do feel for you on this one. Nothing like trying to get something perfect and out on deadline only to find you have to scrap it all and start again.
Get the rugs out for now and forget about it all till you get the time to redo. Dont let it spoil yer Christmas.
Dulex Diamond Glaze is about one of the easiest to use and hardest wearing it is especially for floors (if you want something better than this you are looking at a two part epoxy lacquer)I dont know if home base sell this. Varnish is not for floors it sounds like you put on a gloss varnish which will keep peeling and tearing off you will have to sand it off and start again
well I just got back from homebase had an interesting conversation with the assistant manager who was a trainer lawyer whos only comment was
“I can’t really comment on that without saying something I should”
anyway I told him the shite was not fit for purpose to which he responds what can I do!!! I really felt like throwing him over the counter.
then he says call customer service!!!
he would not upgrade it as “he was not aloud” basically saying it admits the product is sh!te but did give me a refund!!! so I could get a better one so I had a choice between
Ronseal Diamond something or another which looked ok
or
Sodin (or similar) which is what I got as it said was 50% better than it’s nearest competitor…
so I will let you know how I get on in a couple of days…
