Advice - Battery Not Holding Charge

At the moment my bike isn’t starting most of the time! It seems that the battery isn’t holding it’s charge. Now I understand the problem could be either the battery, alternator or rectifier.

I’ve left the battery on charge overnight and it started fine when immediately unplugged but even after a long ride, it was dead when I went to start it again :frowning:

How do I go about working out what the problem is, preferably without spending a whole heap of money!

get someone with a multi meter to check if its charging hun…

i cant do it tonight but i could tommorow night :slight_smile:

chances are you just need a new battery

Always best to buy new battery anyway.

at least if problem persisits you can cross that off the list and you know where you stand.

If ya in the area i got a multi-meter if ya wanna see if charging, or buy 1 can get em cheap enough.

sherrie, almost 100 percent that its the battery…highly unlikely to be the charging circuit on a newish R1…if the rectifier had gone you would be boiling the battery, if the generator had gone the lights would fade and the battery go flat and the bike stop within a few miles…change the battery and from what you have said all will be good…

i thought was other way round, rectifier goes battery does not charge, generator goes boil the battery.

Pretty much sure too as have had rectifiers go in the past and batt was notr charging.

As said Sheerie, Get new battery and at least ya can cross 1 off and sort of know where you stand.

Depending on the fault, buying a new battery may just mean a fried new battery. Get it checked by someone with a meter who knows how to use it. Should take all of two minutes to diagnose.

I agree. If it’s the regulator/rectifier, it’ll usually stop any charge getting into the battery. Usually caused by overheating. At least that’s how it’s worked when mine have gone in the past.

Buying a new battery could be a waste of money if you don’t get to the source of the problem. I think you can get the battery checked, instead of buying a new one.

My money would be on the reg/rec. I can’t see the alternator failing on a bike of it’s age.

Tom.

Cheapest thing to do is to borrow a multimeter of somebody Sherrie.

You can then check the battery and the charging circuit. Its easy:)

Select DC Volts on the multimeter (up to 20 V), and put the red probe on the +ve and the black on the -ve terminals. If the battery is OK and fully charged it should read around 13 Volts. If not, it could be knackered.:w00t:

Now start the engine and have it idle. Be sure to leave lights and everything off. You will see it rise a little, to about 13,5 V

Now rev it up to 4000 RPM. Now you should see full charge, somewhere in the range of 13,9 and 14,5 Volt.

If this isnt the readings you get there is something wrong with your charging circuit and it will need looking at.

Good luck:cool:

Thanks guys! I should see Adz tomorrow so will take him up on his offer. Otherwise I’ll be jump starting my way to you gsxr rocker :slight_smile:

shewoolf where in london are you as you could pop down to MOTOPHYSHO at 83 acton st wc1 and let them check to see if the bike is charging as it will only take ten mins.
and if it not charging they will proberly have a battery in stock,they wont rip you off or tell you that you have to leave it with them,and also they wont say that you need something if you dont.
this is why i use them.
0207 837 0444 as for keith or adam.

oops sorry forgot to say they are open till 7pm weekdays.

Hi Sherrie! I agree with Tom- get the reg/rec checked first otherwise you could end up wasting £80 on a new battery like I did when Wandsworth Honda (since closed down!) advised me that they had checked the reg/rec but hadn’t!

And of course, if you need to buy a battery. Used these a few times…

http://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/departments/department003.asp?Model=YZF%2DR1&Brand=Yamaha&DepartmentName=Motorcycle+Batteries&DepartmentID=155

this is were a lot of people faulter, if ya battery read 13+ volts and voltage goes up etc when revved dont mean the battery is fine. Its amps needed when starting etc to get power around.

come to my shop we’ll sort it for you! (can’t believe you didn’t think of me!!!:stuck_out_tongue: 0

Actually, I need to speak to you about the TPS recall :slight_smile: I’m hoping to get the problem sorted before the weekend and as I’m at work all week, getting to you is a bit difficult :stuck_out_tongue:

PM me your reg and chasis and i’ll check if it needs it/had it - if needed i’ll put the request through yamaha, and get you in asap!

didn’t you buy a new battery at the weekend??

thanks Sean, will get the info when I get home from work. I was loking for a battery on the weekend but couldn’t get one! Sounds like a blessing in disguise now :slight_smile:

Depends if they fail open or closed…one boils the battery as you get neat ac power to your DC battery…unusual but can happen, the other is no charge at all hence the dead battery…genys dont go on new bikes…not very often anyway…and to be fair rectifiers do go but on a new bike doubt it…Sherrie take it to your local battery dealer they will test the battery in two seconds flat…if its good then do some more searching if it isnt get a new battery…given what you have said still think its the battery…you would notice the bike lights slowly getting dimmer and dimmer during the ride, even when you rev the engine you would not notice the lights getting brioghter again… the indicators would get slower and slower, etc etc if it was anything other than a duff battery…

It can’t really be the generator; if the battery discharges after a long ride then the electronic fuel injection wouldn’t work and the bike would stop.

Call in the FD’s, The bikes dead!!! :smiley: Only kiddin hun, Hope you resolve the issue, Guess what… Just got in from work to see I have left my parking lights on all frightfully day long so now I got no battery too. Jeez… :hehe: