Should I be looking to hard wire a cigarette lighter (i.e. splice/solder it into the loom or whatever you do - TBH I’ve not looked into it yet/no idea whether I’m up to the challenge)
… or …
will this do exactly the same job with less hassle?
Any reason to go with one method over the other?
That looks like the way to go I recently bought one of poorer quality and for slightly more money to power a phone charger, it took 10 mins to fit and tucks away under the seat. This in turn powers my phone as the sat nav on it eats the battery, so together with cheap earphones means sat nav on the bike for £15!
i personally run direct to battery with an inline fuse close to battery end as that way i have power all time not just with ignition on so can leave things charge when not on bike etc …
some wire into light circuit others into ign feed
how you do it is up toyou … a soldered connection is good if done correctly and easier to do ( strip back insulation and solder joint and re insulate…
i would not use scothlock type connecters as they have a habit of loosing contact over time …
The kit looks like the job.
Take the wires directly back to the battery contacts with an in-line fuse on the positive side. That way you can use it for battery charging, but…
1: Get the fuse as close to the battery connection as possible.
2: Remember to use a battery conditioner/charger with a lower output rating than the fuse.
Up sides: Easy and more flexible use.
Downsides? Just remember not to leave power using things plugged in when you leave the bike. You’ll need to make up a “cigarette lighter” plug for all the stuff you use the socket for.
Still gets my vote as the way to go.
As above 
Thanks OG 
1: Fuse is already on the wire … if it isn’t “as close” or at least “quite close” to the battery connection end … what would I do? Cut out the excess wires and re-solder the ring connections on? Or just get on with it but carry a spare fuse with me just in case it blows?
2: Assuming my knock off Optimate doesn’t have a lower rating than the fuse … would I still be OK to use it … so long as I took the fuse out whilst it was on the Optimate (i.e. so the fuse isn’t there to be blown) … and didn’t have anything plugged in to the charger. Then, when it comes off the Optimate … sticking the fuse back in, and using as normal?
I only ask because the Optimate is currently with the bike in a garage 300 miles away - so I can’t really check - but would like to place an order
dont the motorcycle ones have a different fitting.
it smaller, and clips in (rather then car ones where its just friction)
that ones expensive…just hunt 12v marine sockets fleabay about a fiver, got 2 on my 'Bird no probs 
Trust you to have 2 ya greedy fecker ;):P:D
Looked at those but they don’t seem to have fuses already wired in … do yours, or did you put them on separately? Am thinking just for another £2 - its easier than putting a fuse on one of the cheapies …
Mr-C Getting the fuse close to the battery is just a super-safety measure for things going completely t*ts-up and the cable insulation wanting to melt before the fuse blows. (Before anyone says that “can’t happen”, it did to me and caused a bit of expense.)
Optimate output? You can probably check that on their web site. You can obviously put a heavier fuse than the one supplied in but then the cable size can then become critical. (See opening line.)
If you want to be truly happy, just buy a waterproof accessory socket and solder in your own cables, fuse carrier and ring terminals to suit. Within common sense terms, the cable can’t be too thick, only too thin.
I got one like this, connected straight to battery and works fine despite the exposed wires at the back. I keep it underneath the seat, not mounted to anything.
Got it for the same reason as you, but had enough after the umpteenth time the phone (Nokia N95, then N97, then HTC Desire) sent me around in circles, so I bit the bullet and got a Zumo 660. Expensive, but I would say it has now paid for itself several times over. Had it for 8 months/8k miles now, brilliant device, on of the best decisions I’ve made.
Now will only use the 12V socket to recharge the phone on camping trips :hehe:
eezyrida . That looks the business and they are decent enough to give the maximum load the kit will take.
As it includes a plug, the price doesn’t look too bad either.
Looks like what I have fitted to the ST1050
I ended up buying what I put a link to since it already has the fuse on the line … if I decide to just hook it to the battery then jobs a good 'un … but I’ve got the option to hack off the -ve ring terminal and soldering it into the loom … so best of both world really. Just see what it looks like once it turns up
Thanks for the advice/opinions everyone
